Checkpoint Charlie & the Berlin Wall

I've been to Berlin twice (both very short trips) and, while I had visited parts of the former Berlin Wall and the current East Side Gallery, where artists have decorated the wall with images of hope and peace, I had never once visited Checkpoint Charlie. Therefore, today I made what I thought would be a quick trip to Checkpoint Charlie. Little did I know how deeply the site and the neighboring museum would pull me in. I'll let the pictures below speak for themselves.

Berlin was divided into East and West Berlin, just as Germany was divided into East and West Germany. The American, British, and French forces controlled West Germany while East Berlin was controlled by the Soviets (and the GDR).  

GDR certification plaque on the Berlin Wall

Some people were able to escape East Germany in the trunks of cars or on "official" (and expensive) diplomatic missions. This woman escaped inside modified speakers in the trunk of a car.

"The exact conditions of each successful escape will be meticulously analyzed and documented by the MfS so that, through further perfection, the 'weak points' of the border system can be eliminated." (MfS = Ministry for State Security = the East German secret police, commonly known as the "Stasi")

Russian cellist Mstislav Rostropovich played Bach in front of the Berlin Wall as the Wall fell in 1989. 

"Freedom is always freedom of those who think differently."

Berlin Day 2: Churches, Gates, and Ferris Wheels

I spent Tuesday between Alexanderplatz, the Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church, and the Brandenburg Gate. It may not sound like much, but these were major tourist stops and took up most of the day.

Alexanderplatz is Berlin's center square. It is most easily recognized for its huge Ferris wheel (Riesenrad) and the television tower (Fernsehturm) nearby. The tower, built by the former GDR government, is still the tallest building in Germany. On a sunny day, it's probably worth the entrance fee to climb to the top and get the bird's eye view of Berlin. Today, not so much. I admired it from afar.

Ferris Wheel on Alexanderplatz

Television tower (Fernsehturm)

Another major attraction in the center of the city is the Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church. Named after Kaiser Wilhelm I, and arguably one of the most famous churches in Germany, the church was bombed and destroyed by a British air raid in World War II. Some sympathetic army officials supposedly told church members that the church was destroyed so that a bigger, better church could be built. Who knows. A new church was indeed built years later and finished in 1960. Today, some 50 years later, the church is undergoing renovations, as evidenced by the scaffolding in the picture below. However, visitors are still being allowed inside. I'm glad I had a chance to visit the chapel. Between the church organ, the cobalt blue windows, and knowing the history, it's a pretty incredible place to be.

Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church

Inside the Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church

Of course, no trip to Berlin would be complete without a trip to the Brandenburg Gate, or the Brandenburger Tor auf Deutsch. (Checkpoint Charlie comes tomorrow.) This city gate was built in the late 18th century as a sign of peace under the Prussian rule of King Friedrich Wilhelm II. It was largely destroyed in WWII and rebuilt as a national monument in 2000-2002.

Brandenburg Gate (Brandenburger Tor)

Brandenburg Gate, theoretically with me in front (in black)

The Brandenburg Gate sits on one of Berlin's major thoroughfares, "Unter den Linden". The picture below was my view as I was leaving the square and heading back to the hostel for a good night's sleep.

Unter den Linden ("Under the linden trees")

Berlin Day 1: Holding Contradictions

I am in Berlin this week for vacation. Since I visited the city briefly many years ago and saw many of the tourist attractions then, this trip will be a mix of some Berlin essentials and other neighborhood tips. I am staying at a hostel in Berlin Kreuzberg, so I am in a great neighborhood and have excellent access to the rest of the city.

Monday, 25 November 2013

I made three major stops on my tour Monday, each completely different from the rest. First, I headed to Oranienplatz, site of Berlin's refugee camp that has been operating independent from the city since January 2013. Refugees from primarily African countries have been camping out on this major square to protest the EU residency laws. When immigrating into Germany, for example, you have to prove you have somewhere to stay and you have to register with the authorities with an official address. Many refugees, however, do not have an address when they are fleeing their countries; they put all their energy into the flight. Furthermore, many say that the EU cannot force anyone to register an official address. They say it is a human right to live where you choose, whether that be at a permanent address or moving from place to place.

More than protesting, these refugees--none of whom have official addresses--are actively resisting their own deportation. I spoke with two of the camp participants--one from Nigeria and the other from Sudan. They both had been with the camp since the beginning, nearly one year ago. I wanted to ask them what caused them to flee their home countries, but figured they had been through enough without my questions. They told me they can always use donations, whether money or in-kind, and particularly need people to guard the camp at night, when it has the greatest chance of being dispersed by police (or simply when the greatest chance of any violence exists). After talking with the men for a while (I have yet to see any of the women), I packed some flyers in my bag to take back with me to Stuttgart and put a small donation in the donation can. Below are pictures of some of the signs and artwork surrounding the camp.

"No person is illegal."

"No residency requirement!
No detainment camps! No deportation!

Left: "Against residency requirement in Europe."
Right: "We are fighting for our human dignity!"

No longer than 20 minutes after leaving the camp, a fight broke out between two of the refugees--about what, I don't know. As I circled back around--not on purpose, but due to my less-than-stellar new-city navigation skills--someone had already called the police to mediate the situation. At least six officers arrived at the camp, though surprisingly kept their distance. Four cars were parked in a side street with their respective officers chatting in the middle of the street. Two paddy wagons were parked directly next to the camp. There was far more police presence than the situation warranted and I worried that if the fight escalated, some of the refugees--or all of them--may end up in paddy wagons. Luckily, that didn't happen and eventually the situation was resolved with minimal intervention.

Staying at a safe distance while reorienting myself, I contemplated violence and non-violence in war-torn communities. When people are being murdered all around you, how are you ever going to learn peace? At the same time, there have been people throughout history who have acted as peaceful witnesses to violence. There are probably some of both "types" of characters in Berlin's refugee camp--and many more who fall somewhere along the spectrum. I suspect the two men fighting at the camp belong to the former group and far too quickly turned to violence to "settle" their dispute because they knew of no other way. Who is more at fault? It's hard to say.

There is a significant chance that the camp will be broken up in the next 2-3 weeks. If so, the refugees will be deported back to their home countries and the few media outlets still providing visibility will move onto the next story.

For more information on the camp, see http://refugeecampberlininfo.tumblr.com,  http://asylstrikeberlin.wordpress.com, and/or http://www.refugeetentaction.net.

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Deep in thought, I started walking to my next destination: Kastanienalle 86, an occupied house and cultural center in danger of being sold to private owners. In comparison to the refugee camp, the house project is nothing but privilege. The resistance against gentrification pales in comparison to the resistance against deportation. It doesn't even make sense to compare the two. I held the contradictions in mind and continued along to the house.

Unfortunately, the house was closed to visitors when I arrived--or maybe it only opens for public events--so I settled for the next best thing. What else would be next to an occupied house? An anarchist bookstore, of course. I spent a while in the bookstore and ended up buying a book on building sustainable international networks. (I guess I can't poke too much fun at the stereotype when I myself support its perpetuation!)

Book: Solidarity Spaces & Cooperative Perspectives

I am not quite sure what to make of Kastanienalle 86. I didn't get to go inside, so I can't judge it fairly. It is in the process of being bought (most likely) and the surrounding neighborhood is quickly filling with trendy boutiques and coffeeshops catering to English-speaking tourists. I would not be surprised if, after a substantial fight, the house is bought. It's really just a matter of time and money. I just hope the socio-cultural projects rooted in the housing collective find new spaces to flourish.

Leaving Kastanienallee, I headed toward my third and final stop of the day: the Ritter chocolate factory.  You know the Ritter Sport square-shaped chocolates you can buy at Target or supermarkets in the U.S.? Well, that Ritter is based in Berlin. However, the demonstration workshop was closed for a private event, the "museum" gave only the vaguest ideas of how the chocolate is made, and so I had to console myself in the Ritter chocolate shop. I don't think I've ever seen more chocolate at one time in my life: all different varieties in brightly colored wrappers, and even a meter(!)-stick of chocolate mini-squares were available to be purchased. I picked out a few varieties: nougat, yogurt, almond, and cacao brittle.

While Ritter is not yet certified with the Fair Trade label, they do make some effort to maintain an environmentally sustainable operation and pay their farmers and workers fair wages. They have also recently started a line of EU-certified organic chocolate. I hope Ritter continues in the direction of environmental, economic, and social sustainability: they will most certainly profit from the right decision.

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Monday finished up with Indian food for dinner and planning for Tuesday. On the agenda for Tuesday is: the Brandenburg Gate and surroundings, the Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church, and maybe a Christmas market or two.

I leave you with a photo for consideration. I walked past this today. Anyone missing a shoe?

"What do you do?"

Many people ask me what I do all day at my post-doc. It is an excellent question, as my official titles of "post-doc" and "wissenschaftliche Mitarbeiterin" (female scientific research colleague) really don't tell you anything at all. So here's the overview. Feel free to ask more questions in the comments section.

I work at the Fraunhofer Institute, Europe's largest applied research institute and one of the world's top 100 innovative organizations. There are 66 Fraunhofer Institutes in Germany with others scattered throughout the world. My specific institute is the Institute for Building Physics (Institut für Bauphysik), which includes the Department of Life Cycle Engineering, where I do my research.

What research do I do exactly? Good question! I work primarily on two projects: one dealing with biofuels and the other with biodiversity. Both projects are based in the science of life cycle assessment, which if you remember from my previous post, is an internationally standardized scientific method used to measure the environmental impacts of products and services throughout their life cycle. Sometimes these life-cyle evaluations also consider economic and social impacts to provide a broader sustainability analysis.

In the biofuels project, I am comparing life cycle impacts of five Brazilian biofuels, including sugarcane, cottonseed, and babassu, a type of palm native to South America. With data from project partners on the ground in Brazil, I calculate life-cycle impacts, such as global warming potential (based on greenhouse gas emissions), acidification, eutrophication and water use. I also model direct land use, which is tricky since (as of 2013) no standardized method for modeling land use exists. Therefore, I must draw from past modeling suggestions, informed with my own understanding of land use, and mold the method to best fit the needs of the project. It has certainly been interesting!

In addition to land use, life cycle assessment also lacks a standardized method for calculating biodiversity. The more basic question is even: how does one define biodiversity? What should be counted: animals, plants, invasive species, rates of extinction? There is much discussion, but no consensus. Our biodiversity project at Fraunhofer therefore uses the 1992 Convention on Biological Diversity as a starting point and includes a prescreening process to identify supply chain hotspots, where biodiversity may be a critical issue, and follows that up with fuzzy modeling and other advanced math to calculate the actual impact.

Working in areas such as land use and biodiversity within life cycle assessment means that I am working at the forefront of the field. Without established methods to follow, I get to be creative and design my own methods, some of which could eventually have an impact on the field as a whole. It is this potential for impact and this quest for understanding that drives me to come into work each day. Having brilliant, fun-loving colleagues certainly helps, too! I am now three months shy of halfway through my post-doc. I have learned so much and given back through papers and presentations as well. I look forward to what the next 15 months bring.

LCA XIII: a conference on sustainability

Just a few days ago, I returned from Orlando, Florida where this year's Life Cycle Assessment conference, LCA XIII, was held. Life cycle assessment is an internationally standardized scientific method used to measure the environmental impacts of products and services throughout their life cycle. What this basically boils down to is that I got to hang out with brilliant sustainability geeks for three days in a subtropical climate with a Disney theme park nearby. Oh, and don't forget the hotel, modeled after the port city of Portofino, Italy:

Conference hotel, modeled after the port village of Portofino, Italy.

This was my first academic conference as a newly minted PhD and one of the first where I really felt like an independent researcher, at least within my area of expertise (land use of biofuels, industrial ecology, and GIS). For my talk, I presented work from my dissertation on producing renewable energy on marginal and contaminated lands. The audience was great and offered some interesting suggestions that could enhance the feasibility of the project's outcomes.

I also attended a wide variety of other talks, which included discussions of eco-effiency from an industry perspective, various methods for modeling recycling, many talks on food and agriculture since I am currently involved with modeling biofuel feedstocks, and an entire block of presentations on land use and ecosystem services, one of my favorite areas of research. I also had the opportunity to attend talks by at least five of my former Pittsburgh peers, all of whom are now finishing their PhDs or have already continued on to post-docs, professorships, and corporate consulting. What an impressive group we had!

Now that the conference is over, I am organizing all my notes and new contacts, but more importantly am spending time with family back home in Philadelphia. I fly to Germany on Thursday, and no matter how long the stay, time back home always goes more quickly than expected. For now, I am enjoying as much American and Philadelphian culture as possible. It's good to be home.

Kodachrome

I recently heard about some photos that have been attracting Internet attention lately. They are primarily from the 1930s and 1940s and were taken with Kodachrome, one of the first color films. (Wikipedia offers an introduction to Kodachrome here.)

I've seen some beautiful travel photos, but these take my breath away. Really, take a look.

[Footnote: Those of you with an interest in technology and sci-fi might also be reminded of Walter Tevis' 1963 novel The Man Who Fell to Earth. At least I was.]

Next up on the blog: how to survive and prosper in an international post-doc (or any position abroad/in Germany.) I have gathered my fair share of experience and advice in these past nine months!

Friends & Good Ol' Times

I recently visited my German host family from high school. As I mentioned at the beginning of this blog, I spent my last semester of high school in Germany with some of the fabulous people below. (Not everyone could make it over the weekend, so watch out for the second edition of this photo at some later date!)

The weekend was full of biking and canoeing along a nearby river, later looking at vacation photos from Portugal, and catching up over good food, including the typical German afternoon cake and coffee.

As we told stories, I thought about how much that final semester of high school influenced where I am today. Without a doubt, spending it in Germany played a huge role in me double-majoring in German, later traveling and studying in German-speaking countries, and setting the stage for future endeavors, such as my post-doc.

This week, the higher education publication The Chronicle printed an article on the current state of German departments at U.S. colleges and universities. (Hint: it's not good.) The article, entitled "Don't Ditch Deutsch", laments the diminishing number of German departments offering traditional literature courses, as well as the diminishing number of German departments overall. Those departments offering fewer literature courses are instead opting for more "practical" business and other professional German courses. (Why can't we offer both?) I, for one, cannot imagine my college experience without our German department, and studying literature was a huge part of that experience. Writing for those German lit classes even improved my scientific writing, much to the surprise of my purely technically-minded engineering peers.

Given the current state of affairs, the author argues for the integration of German topics into related courses: Marx in Political Science, Jelinek in Women's Studies, and so on. Whether this approach works (or is even needed) depends on the institution, but I think we can all agree that losing our German departments and our German teachers would be a substantial loss indeed -- not only at the universities, but at every level of education. Offering fewer opportunities to learn German means offering fewer opportunities to make a difference in the German-sepaking world. And after all, you never know where one single course may lead.

Read the article while it's still paywall-free here.

Dinner on the Balcony

This is my view every summer evening, for as long as it is warm enough to eat outside. It certainly is nice to have an apartment with a balcony!

Evolving Roles

It's official: I have my first academic advisee. As of this week, I am advising an undergraduate environmental engineering student who is writing his thesis (in German) on soybean biodiesel conversion processes in Brazil. While I've mentored and managed both college and high school students before, this is my very first involvement with the writing of a thesis. As an undergraduate, this student is still learning how to do "real" research, so I will be helping him with all the major aspects: from the literature search to critical analysis to scientific writing. I may be a tad excited.

Betriebsausflug: a field trip about ... windows?

Bright and early Monday morning, I boarded a chartered bus to a town I had never heard of: Marktheidenfeld, Germany -- 100 miles northeast of Stuttgart and 50 miles southeast of Frankfurt, basically just south of the middle of the country. Why, you ask? It was my department's annual "industry field trip" and this year we were headed to the "solar management" company WAREMA.

What exactly do solar managers do? They manage the sun's rays, of course. And what does that mean ...? WAREMA designs and manufactures blinds, shutters, and awnings, as well as window treatments to protect against too much sun and even to ward off insects. This all sounds rather bland unless you've experienced German window technology -- and yes, it is both technology and an experience.

Let's look at blinds, shutters, and awnings. German blinds basically look like what you would see in the U.S., the only major difference being that they are more frequently operated by remote control than the typical American household blinds. Shutters, on the other hand, are not clap-shutters but rather heavy-duty blinds. They are operated via pulley or remote control, and resemble the rolling metal doors of garages or store entrances (when the store is closed). Awnings are far more common in Germany than in the U.S. and are also operated via remote control.

Rolladen: Germany's shutters, or heavy-duty blinds. (Imagine the snow.)

View of Rolladen from the outside.

Looking at the top Rolladen picture, you may notice the metal handles on the windows. I have been told that U.S. windows are "old-fashioned": do we really still open windows by sliding them up and down? What happens when they get stuck? Don't we want better ventilation? German windows have handles that operate in two directions: when the handle is vertical, the window opens from the top outward (usually a few inches); when the handle is horizontal, the entire window opens just like a door. There is one drawback, however: there are no screens. This may be fine in the winter, when opening the window for fresh air, but in the summer? Hello, mosquitoes! I joke with my roommates: they will never have to worry about mosquito bites -- the spiders take care of their share and the remaining mosquitoes take care of me! Actually, American screens wouldn't work well with German windows anyway. The screen would have to cover the entire length of the window and doing so would impact aesthetics, not to mention ventilation. (Business opportunity, anyone?)

After touring WAREMA's production facilities, which despite my lack of photos were actually quite fascinating, we returned to the bus and drove onto Würzburg, about 25 miles southeast of Marktheidenfeld. The big attraction in Würzburg, aside from the Main River, is the Marienberg Fortress. We stopped for an hour to explore the fortress grounds before continuing on our way to the local Biergarten for dinner. It was rainy gray day and everyone was in a rush, but I still took my time to get a few pictures.

The "refuge castle" as seen from the fortress.
If I ever return to Würzburg, I definitely want to tour the castle.

Würzburg from above, and from behind the flowers.

Würzburg, the Main River, and beyond.

Some of my work colleagues, thinking "Briana is still taking pictures??"
(Well yes, because where else do you see fairytale cottages like the one below?)

Cottage for the park service? Hobbit summer home? I simply don't know.

Soon it was time to board the bus again. I left the fortress grounds with a general impression of the area, but I would really like to return to wander around more and also tour the castle. I'll just have to add this medieval town to my growing list places to visit, or revisit, as the case may be.

Where does the next door lead?

Schlossgarten

With 90-degree temperatures and "naturally ventilated" buildings, I spent a lot of time in the tree-filled Schlossgarten park this weekend. Most other Stuttgarters seemed to have had the same idea, but luckily the park is big enough that it wasn't completely overrun with people.

"Lower" Schlossgarten. There are upper, middle, and lower sections of the park. 

A big old oak tree, but be careful! You may not want to sit up against it ...

The sign reads: "Caution: Oak procession moths! In the area of oak trees, one can count on finding oak procession moths." I'll let you Google these little critters. 

After avoiding being eaten by oak procession moths, I found this bird by the lake. Great blue heron? I don't remember what the wings looked like and I would expect a Great Blue Heron to have more ... blue.   

Anyone want to take a guess?

Tomorrow is Monday, the start of a new work week. I am not at all looking forward to working inside all day, but maybe it won't be so bad. I just have to channel the shade of the Schlossgarten ...

Until next time, dear readers!

Just another Wednesday night ...

... or not. Stuttgart is currently hosting an open-air global cultures festival and the opening act Wednesday night was the four-woman band Iva Nova from St. Petersburg, Russia. I don't even know where to begin to describe Iva Nova's genre: wherever traditional Russian and Slavic folk meets modern electronica with sometimes eerie and possessed vocals and dancing to match. During the show, I heard people asking the same question that I was wondering myself, namely: "How does she dance with that accordian around her neck?!" On stage, the women covered accordian, bass, percussion, keyboard/synthesizer, and vocals. They also had an eventful day behind them. They had driven directly from the German border to Berlin to Stuttgart in one day, almost getting stranded twice with car trouble. The concert therefore started 45 minutes late, but with an incredible amount of energy on stage and almost as much energy in the crowd. Summer + good music + friendly people: you can't ask for much more!

Iva Nova at Stuttgart's "Summer Festival of Cultures"

Ducks

Sometimes you end up with photos you don't know what to do with, but also don't want to delete. Case in point: my trip to Vienna last month. In this vein, I introduce to you The Ducks of Burggarten:

News Back Home

I remember my first trip abroad. I was 14 and traveling with the German Language School Conference. Our three-week trip consisted of two homestays: two weeks with a family in Germany and one week with a family in Austria.

We were given much advice to ease the culture shock and to transition into the immersion experience. In particular I remember that we were advised against calling home. Of course, we all called our families immediately upon arrival, but thereafter we were advised to stay immersed in the local culture and not worry about what was happening on the other side of the Atlantic. This was before online social media and just barely after e-mail started to take off. Immersion, for me at least, was relatively simple.

Sixteen years later--theoretically 16 years wiser--I find it far more difficult to stay immersed in the local culture. Some of the [dis]connection is intentional and some of it just happens. During the week, I work in an office where I am constantly connected to the Internet. It is very easy to check Google News or the Rachel Maddow Show or listen to English-language podcasts on iTunes, for example. I do read the German news, but not nearly as often as I should. That said, I don't surround myself with English-speaking expats either. I live with native German-speakers, speak German all day every day, and enjoy exploring German (and European) culture.

Then something happens that draws my attention back to the U.S.  This week it was the Supreme Court  rulings, in April it was the Boston Marathon bombings, in January it was President Obama's Inauguration, and so on. And it's certainly not all bad. The mid-morning timing of the Supreme Court's DOMA and Prop 8 decisions, for example, combined with the 6-hour time difference to Germany and the wonders of Facebook and mobile technology, allowed me to celebrate the historic victories yesterday online with many of my friends while they in turn were celebrating in the streets in the U.S. And this is a key point: so many current events that happen in the U.S. don't make the news here until the next day. (Of course, the reverse applies to global news reaching the general U.S. public as well.) Not only is there a time lag in communication of events, there is a conceptual lag, too. We simply care most about the things we know best. My mind may take in and process German news and culture, but when it comes to major U.S. events, my heart is most often immediately there on U.S. American soil -- and I think it's okay that way, too.

Miksang & the Good Eye

Miksang is a Tibetan word meaning "good eye". The goal of Miksang photography is to reveal the true nature of things, just as they are. The Miksang photographer tries to share their perception as directly as possible, without letting any other ideas get in the way. You take the picture, capture the moment, and move on. It's a deliberate way of seeing.

I was first introduced to Miksang in Pittsburgh last Spring when I participated in a workshop led by teacher Brian Sano. (Check out Brian's website and gallery. Highly recommended!) Each of the three days, we focused on a different element: first color, then pattern, then texture. Each day included lecture, discussions, exercises, and then 2-3 hours on our own taking pictures in the neighborhood. In the afternoons we would regroup, sort through our photos, and create a slideshow of our top picks. Below are some of the photos I took during that first workshop and shortly thereafter.

Color in Pittsburgh, PA

Color in Pittsburgh, PA

Color in Pittsburgh, PA

Pattern (and color) in Pittsburgh, PA

Pattern in Pittsburgh, PA

Pattern in Pittsburgh, PA

Texture in Pittsburgh, PA

Texture in Pittsburgh, PA 

Texture in Pittsburgh, PA

A few weeks ago, I took the second Miksang workshop in the series (there are five total). This workshop was held in Vienna and focused on uncovering the essence of things. We considered, for example, the tree-ness of trees, the water-ness of water, the sidewalk-ness of sidewalks, the people-ness of people. Each object is different--this tree is different from that tree, for example--but every tree has qualities that make it instantly identifiable as a tree. These are the qualities that together form the tree's tree-ness. (Don't worry if you're confused about all this "-ness" talk.  It took us three days of intense workshop to even begin to grasp the concept.) Perhaps some pictures will help.

Sidewalk-ness in Vienna Austria

Sidewalk-ness (and water-ness) in Vienna, Austria

Sidewalk-ness and water-ness in Vienna, Austria

Water-ness (and color) in Vienna, Austria 

Tree-ness in Vienna, Austria

Tree-ness in Vienna, Austria

Tree-ness in Vienna, Austria

The trick to learning any new skill is, of course: practice, practice, practice. I love taking my camera out into the city, or simply along with me wherever I happen to be going. It doesn't have to be anywhere special to be interesting. The opportunity to notice and to capture our perceptions is always there. While paying attention to "-ness" has been more difficult for me than color, pattern, or texture, it is already proving to be worth the effort.

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If you are interested in learning more about Miksang, visit the Miksang Institute for Contemplative Photography at: http://miksang.com.